The bus driver didn’t seem phased by our near-death experiences
The tractor-trailer was dead ahead, roaring towards us. The cab-over truck flashed its square headlights at our driver.
There was nowhere to go.
The highway was only 2 lanes wide, with maybe 2 feet of paved shoulder.
Our tour bus was passing a dump truck, which was passing a motorcycle with a trailer loaded with mattresses.
Yes, you read that correctly. Two stacks of mattresses, a dozen or so high.
Surely, there was about to be a serious collision.
Nobody slowed down.
The big rig had moved over as far as possible, its right side wheels off the pavement. That was a trick, as the side of the highway bustled with motorcycles, pedestrians, and businesses displaying products right out to the road.
At the last possible second, the bus swerved ahead of the dump truck, cutting it off and forcing it over. The dump truck managed to make the pass of the mattresses in time. I think.
The big truck edged back onto the pavement a split second before crashing into a group of motorcycles, kicking up a huge cloud of red clay dust.
The bus driver kept the same nonchalant expression the entire time. Cool as a cucumber. I wondered what he was listening to. He wore earbuds the entire drive and had to remove them to speak to our guide.
I looked behind me and surveyed the crowd. The passengers not sleeping looked at each other with wide eyes, in disbelief at what we had witnessed. Two-thirds of the passengers were sleeping. By the terrified expression on some faces, I’m certain those people would have preferred to sleep right through our brush with death.
It wasn’t the first or last similar incident, but it was the closest. From my vantage point in the front row of the bus, far too close. Not wanting to be launched through the front window, I pulled my seat belt tighter and continued to watch the show.
Cement trucks play chicken up a 2-lane bridge
Crossing over the Mekong River bridge was fun. I was surprised at the unexpected restraint on the part of our bus driver. Perhaps he was concerned at the prospects of a serious crash in front of us. Two cement trucks had a drag race up the steep incline of a 2 lane bridge, passing a loaded motorcycle and trailer.
Our bus passed the small blue truck, and I expected him to follow past the slower cement truck. I was relieved when he did not. Fortunately, there was no oncoming traffic to collide with the passing truck, which was almost at the crest of the bridge when the driver was able to get back in the right lane.
A crash would have sent vehicles and people plunging several stories to the Mekong River below. I don’t know for sure, but I am going to assume that something in that water would enjoy the free meals.
The highway was constantly busy. There was a steady flow of traffic going in either direction.
The silver ‘Giant Ibis’ bus spent at least a quarter of the drive in the opposite lane, maybe a third. The 220 kilometers from Phnom Penh to Siam Reap was the most exciting bus ride I’ve ever taken.
Cambodia is a poor nation. Life for the people has steadily improved since the evil Khmer Rouge regime finally ended in 1979. Still, the majority of the people live in or near poverty. That fact is evident as you cross the countryside.
Poor farms and roadside shacks line the highway. Gas is sold in two-liter plastic bottles. When our tour bus stopped for a break, poorly dressed vendors were waiting for us, desperately hoping we would make some small purchase of their trinkets and souvenirs.
Lunch: Knife fish with the heads on
Our lunch stop was a wonderful restaurant at the edge of a small, shallow lake. Being of the adventurous sort, I ordered the ‘Knife fish with noodles and bean sauce.’ The fish was dynamite, perfectly cooked and easily separated from the spine and bones. The noodles and bean sauce, not so much. They use way too much lemongrass for my liking.
Phnom Penh is the capital and largest city in Cambodia. The city is growing at a tremendous rate, with construction cranes visible in every direction. Tourism and construction are providing better jobs and an improving quality of life for the people. The waterfront area is bustling with great food, bars, and a fun atmosphere.
A few days later, we drove from Phnom Penh to Siam Reap. Similar bus, with another very nonchalant driver. The same highway conditions, with similar games of chicken. I didn’t get to watch from the front seat, and that was a bit disappointing.
Next time I’m in Cambodia, I’m going to take the bus again. Just for the excitement. In the front seat.
For more of my travel stories, I post them on medium.com/Globetrotters.
Copyright 2024, Michael Williams All rights reserved.
