Surfing rule #1: The ocean is in charge.
My surfing instructor explained the turtle roll thusly:
“So when a big wave comes in, hold onto the board and roll. Let the wave go over the board and then roll back over.”
I squinted my eyes into the sun, looking out over the incoming waves. “You want me roll under the big wave while holding the surfboard? Sounds like a good way to drown.”
Joe laughed. “I’ll show you when we get into the water.” He picked up his surfboard, and walked into the foaming sea. I followed with mine.
I had never been surfing before. It’s one of those things on the bucket list, but not near the top. Just something I’ve never done that seemed like something I should do!
A very special friend of mine, Susan, set up the lesson for us. Susan lost her husband to a heart attack, just over a year ago. Both widowed, we have become close since we met in Munich on a Trafalgar Tour. I flew to California for a visit over New Years.
Susan told me to be ready for 9 am, and wear sports clothes. She did not want to ruin the surprise by telling me to wear a swimsuit.
On this last full day of my visit, I found myself on Bolsa Chica State Beach. A beautiful stretch of sandy beach and protected wetlands at Huntington Beach. The park is jammed during the main season, but slows down during the ‘worst of winter’. Joe’s term. Yes, that is certainly relative. I’m from an area called the ‘snow belt,’ in central Ontario, Canada. I’ve seen the worst of winter, and let me tell you, this was NOT it!
The weather was beautiful, and the temperature in the sun reached 70 degrees. We squeezed into our wetsuits and listened to Joe give us instruction.
Joey Hustle, as his nickname goes, is a native New Yorker. After learning on Long Island, he has been teaching surfing for over 20 years. He has taught for ‘Corky Carrol’s Surf School’ in Costa Rica and California. Check out Joe’s Instagram page here. We were in good hands.
Good thing too, as it was a rough day for learning. If I was not catching a plane the next day, Joe would have advised us to reschedule. The waves were coming in fast and powerful, white foam spraying the beach.
As soon as I entered the water, I could feel the power of the ocean. I have been in the ocean before, but not with the intent to surf. An immediate observation was the power of the water to pull you in, as a big wave returned to the sea.
I am a good swimmer, and in decent shape for 50. Fighting the currents and the waves sure had me grateful for all those core exercises I do. This is not a sport for the out of shape.
Joe and I walked out as far as we could, which was only 20 feet or so, before laying on our boards and paddling out on the ‘green water.’ Green water was flat, in between waves, and a chance to paddle out quick. For a smaller wave, raise yourself and the board up over the crest.
I practiced the aforementioned ‘turtle roll’. First time, I was late with my roll, was pounded by the wave, and drank a boatload of seawater. When I finally was breathing again, I could stand. The wave had pushed me all the way back to shore, dragged by my tethered surfboard, my outbound progress all lost. ‘Turtle Roll?’ What turtle would be caught performing that stunt?
A few tries later, I was getting the hang of it. At least, I figured out how not to lose so much forward progress, and stopped drinking a gallon of sea water every time. Those rolls take a lot of energy out of you while learning.
Hogtied By My Tether
Joe pointed out a large wave rolling in, and said that was the one we wanted. He could read the ocean. (!?) Over a small wave, then quickly turn around. We started to paddle, and get speed. I heard ‘NOW!’ and slid my hands back, raising my body into a plank position.
I drove my left knee forward to my chest, slowly turned, and…fell ass over tea kettle backwards. Another gallon or so of salt water was drank, my tether hogtied my feet, and it was surely the end! Poseidon’s trident was going to pick me off the ocean floor.
But no. Somehow I managed to get a foot loose and avoid drowning. Lifeguards were not on duty. It was on us to save our own asses.
Joe had apparently enjoyed a fine ride on his board, and was already headed back out for the next run. He told me I almost had it, but to transition faster to achieve better balance. Okay. Sure. I followed him back out through green water and cresting waves.
Another unsuccessful effort, but I was getting the hang of it and knew that balance was my issue. Anyone who knows me will not be shocked by that.
The next time, I was in position early, and ready for the wave Joe picked out. I highly doubt I will ever surf enough to ‘read the ocean,’ that is a very unique skill. When the wave came in, I paddled like a shark was chasing me and was up to speed in time.
Slide hands back. Raise plank. Drive knee. Twist the feet, rising into a low crouch. I was up!! I was surfing!!
For three glorious seconds, I rode that wave. It was AWESOME!!
My ride ended with the usual fall, but this time I did not care. A great triumph! Sorry Poseidon, not this time! I stood and swiped my hair back. Susan was cheering my great triumph from the beach, and managed to get a couple photos.
I was in need of a breather. It was Susan’s turn to get into the water and experience the waves. Susan was a good swimmer. Her oldest son had surfed for years and her other children on occasion, but she never had.
This woman is incredibly inspiring. She makes me want to be a better version of myself, much like my wife did 25 years ago. Susan sees no obstacles, only challenges to be overcome. So into the water she went. Joe helped her practice turtle rolls and get used to being on the board.
Susan never quite managed to get fully up on her board, but I know that was because she let me have the majority of Joe’s time. She took a tough tumble and was smacked by her board, but went right back out and tried again. There is zero quit in Susan.
https://youtu.be/SwWNPezPDxE Yes, I did get that tumble on video.
When our three hour lesson was over, Joe was apologetic for the waves. A tough day to learn. Getting up on the board at all, as rookies, was a solid effort. The violent beauty of the ocean was on display, but had been conquered.
We rinsed the sand from our gear and hair. Sand just kept coming. Even from my hair, and there isn’t much. You can laugh at that.
Susan gave Joe a nice tip as we thanked him. Hopefully, he is around next time I visit California. I will surf again. I know Susan will join me. It’s another adventure to add to our list. A million more to come.
