An area of Vietnam to explore and savour, but don’t fall out of the boat!
In the Mekong Delta, I looked the snake in the eye as I tossed back the shot. The snake looked back through the clear liquor, as if to laugh at me. The snake whiskey hit my pallet strong and burned a little, but was okay.
I reached for the next shot, as our guide poured a round into tiny wooden bowls. Coconut whiskey. Sweeter. Easier on the pallet. Not bad. Not good either. Sweet and whiskey are not a combination I’d recommend.
Shot number three was honey whiskey. It burned my throat and sent a wave of warmth through my body.
Oh, doctor! That’s the stuff!! Only the tiniest honey taste, that I probably wouldn’t notice if I hadn’t looked for it. The alcohol content was unknown, but if it’s under 150 proof, I’ll eat my hat. I reached for another.
We had traveled by van from Ho Chi Minh to the Mekong Delta. Our little group of three, plus our guide, loaded into a small boat and chugged upriver for 20 minutes.
The Mekong River has very brown water. We were told that while there are normally no alligators, it was best to stay in the boat and not test the theory.
At my skeptical eye, our guide, Kelvin, said, “Too much paperwork for me.” Then he laughed and continued. “Seriously, just better to not touch the water. You can’t see what’s in it.” Funny guy, but we followed his advice.
The boat turned into a smaller tributary, and we passed several fish nets along the shore. As the tide rises, the nets would be in deeper water. Fish is the main protein of the region.
The boat captain pulled up to a four-foot square platform hiding in the brush at the side of the river. As we disembarked, the smell of coconut filled our nostrils. A few steps up a walkway, and we arrived at a coconut candy and oil factory.
Questions for customs and coconut candy
Lo Keo dua Nam Bo (Nam Bo coconut candy factory) is more than just a candy factory. They make and sell a variety of coconut souvenirs, crafts, banana chips, and the aforementioned whiskeys. I’m going to have to use some creative license through customs.
If a snake is dead and in a bottle of booze, is it still a snake? If booze is just a fluid for transporting a dead snake, is it still booze?
Probably best to not declare that bottle at all.
A very tanned, exceptionally thin man showed us how the candy was made. He sliced open the coconut and poured out the water into a large pail. Then he proceeded to slam the coconut onto a sharp metal post anchored to the floor many times, breaking up the husk. The outer shell was broken off, and put aside.
The inner husk was cut in half, and the coconut meat was extracted using a simple machine. Think large citrus juicer, on its side. Hold the coconut to the sharp extractor, and the coconut meat comes off in tangled, hair-like strands.
The coconut meat is put into a large wok, sitting over a fire. A thick, clear substance derived from cane sugar is added. (Odd. I knew what it was called before we did the whiskey shots. The 36-degree heat must have affected my memory.)
The coconut and thick liquid mixture was heated, but not boiled. It was stirred almost constantly. After about 30 minutes, the coconut turns brownish colour and very thick.
They throw away nothing here. The outer husk is used as firewood.
The brown coconut mixture can then have flavors or peanuts added and stirred in. The candy is poured onto a board that frames the candy into strips about half an inch wide.
After it cools a bit, a woman takes the strips and cuts them into square pieces, wrapping them individually as she goes.
A simple technique that has been around for… a very long time. (I’ll blame the heat again.) We tried some freshly made pieces. Delicious! Not overly sweet, and just enough chew. Very good with peanuts.
We all shopped for candy and whatnot, then had a snack of healthy ginger tea and fresh fruit. A small group of musicians played a banjo, acoustic guitar, and a small drum. The drummer and a couple of women acted out the history of the area as they sang.
Remembering Anthony Bourdain
A cool moment for me personally happened at the checkout. I use the local courtesy words whenever I can. It’s a simple way to show respect when we travel. I thanked the cashier with “cam on”, the ‘on’ pronounced with an accent sound. The woman smiled and bowed.
Our guide, Kelvin, heard me. He smiled and said, “You are a traveler, not a tourist!” I am a fan of Anthony Bourdain, and know that to be his credo. I asked Kelvin if he knew of Bourdain, and he said he loved him and his shows because he was so respectful everywhere he went.
Rest in peace, Anthony. Know that you’ve left a positive influence on so many people and travellers around the world.
I should mention that the couple in my little group, Rene and Louise from the Montreal area, are most definitely ‘travellers’ as well.
We left the candy factory and hopped into a tuk-tuk. A short ride later we stopped for a display of traditional mat weaving. Louise sat with the women and tried out the skill as we watched.
Elephant Ear fish for lunch
Lunch was served at a beautiful restaurant set amongst coconut and fruit trees. The water lever was low, so the many narrow canals were not negotiable by the narrow boats used during harvesting.
The locals believe it is bad luck to flip over a fish. Karma will make your boat flip over. Therefore, our elephant ear fish was cooked and served upright, so we could eat both sides. The hot chili peppers protruding from its mouth were a nice touch.
Our server quickly jammed a fork down the fish’s spine and separated the meat, then did the same to the other side. The woman showed us how to use the rice paper to roll the fish with noodles, pineapple, and cucumber. Thin, clear chili sauce added some heat but was not overpowering.
Delicious!! We also had seafood broth and fried banana leaves. Dessert, as always, consisted of fresh fruit.
After we ate, a short walk took us through the fruit trees. The canals were very low, they are used to pick fruit and transport it. It was interesting to see the old, ramshackle houses sitting next to new and modern houses. Some properties had concrete driveways and patios with beautiful mosaic patterns in them. The access road to the houses was barely more than a cart path, yet SUVs were parked in the driveway. No doubt, a necessity in the rainy season.
Another boat, and more questionable water in the Mekong Delta
To get back to our van, we took a small boat through the dense growth of the delta. The stream was only a couple of meters deep, in some spots less than that. Long ago, it had been widened to allow for the transport of fruit and vegetables by boat. The stream was still narrow enough to allow the palm trees on the side of the stream to create a full canopy over the water.
The boat was paddled by an elderly woman wearing a traditional straw hat to protect her from the intense sun beating down through the trees. I was glad it was not the rainy season, we were told that the bugs and mosquitos are thick enough to carry a person away.
We reached the landing and tipped the woman for her efforts. Not a lot, but the woman bowed in thank you, and smiled at my “Cam on”. Everyone was very thankful for our visit and any purchases we made.
Our drive back to the hotel was unremarkable, although the views from the Mekong River bridge were outstanding.
I would highly recommend a day in the Mekong Delta to anyone travelling in Vietnam. Meet the people. See how they live and work. Many of the techniques we saw for making bricks, candy, cooking and such go back centuries. See the villages, taste the food, and wonder at the scenery. The people are wonderful.
A shout-out to our guide, Kelvin. Very knowledgeable, and fun to tour with.
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Copyright 2024, Michael Williams. All rights reserved.
Some extra pictures:
